Northern areas of Pakistan are considered as paradise on earth among regular travellers. These areas are beyond the grip of ongoing terrorism. Terrorism in Pakistan is only on those areas where Pushtuns population lives or controls the areas. The situation is the same as it was in Sri Lanka where civil war or terrorism was confined to Tamil community areas or big cities where Tamils were visiting or living. The same situation is in Pakistan where terrorism is mostly in big cities and in Pushtun community areas. In this travel guide, tourists are informed about only those areas where no law and order situation has been indicated and these area are known as very friendly and peaceful areas.
Baltistan
Baltistan, 26,000 square kilometres in area is right below the serrated, jagged and glaciated ramparts of the Karakorams. Once part of Ladkah, it was known as Tibet-i-Khurd Little Tibet.
Archaeological exploration has proven that it was encompassed by the Silk Trade Route. Rock carvings have been discovered along the road between Gol and Khapulu, and Skardu and Satpara Lake. The trade routes here split at Skardu with one leading to Satpara over the Deosai and Burzil Pass (5000 meters high) into Kashmir and another leading to Gol. At Gol it forks again with one trail leading to Khapulu, the other to Kharmang into Leh.
Skardu
Amidst a landscape of towering mountains, deep gorges, crashing waterfalls and quiet lakes, Skardu, the district headquarters of Baltistan, is situated on the banks of the mighty river Indus, just 8 km above its confluence with the river Shigar. Perched at a height of 2286 meters (7,500 ft), Skardu offers a cool and bracing climate. On the eastern boundary of the district lies Ladakh, in the west Gilgit, in the south Indian-held Kashmir and to the north is the Chinese province of Sinkiang.
During summer, Skardu attracts a large number of trekkers and mountaineers from all parts of the world. In fact, the entire region is known as a mountaineers paradise. Nowhere in the world does one find such a large collection of lofty peaks, including K-2 the worlds second highest peak. Huge glaciers like Baltoro, Biafo and Siachen abound, some of the largest in the world outside the Polar region, in this 16,283 square km (10,118 square miles) of wonderland.
There are five main valleys in the district Skardu, Shigar, Khaplu, Rondu and Kharmang. All of them produce apricots, peaches, pears and apples in such profusion that this region is known as the land of apricots and apples.
Kharfocho Fort
The construction of Kharfocho fort or the King of forts at Skardu has been attributed to the famous ruler of Skardu – Maqpon Bugha (1490 1515 AD), the great grand father of Ali Sher Khan Anchan (1560 1625 AD) by Hishatullah. But Mughal historians are of the view that the great fort was built by Ali Sher Khan Anchan himself.
Mindoq Khar
This palace was built by Gul Khatoon or Mindoq Gialmo on the hill where now stands the Kharfocho fort only. The palace was named after the queen as Mindoq Khar meaning the Flower Palace. The Palace was destroyed by the troops of the Sikh ruler of Kashmir, Maharaja Gulab Singh, when he invaded Skardu in 1840 AD.
Hilal Bagh and Chahar Bagh
Just below the Mindoq Khar or Flower Palace, there was a terraced garden with fountains built in marble. This royal garden covered the areas from Mindoq Khan to the present bazaar at Skardu where the newly constructed road crosses the channel. A palace built in marble with towers also stood in the middle of the garden, above the Polo Ground which is called Ghudi Changra. The palace was destroyed during the great floods in the area after the death of Ali Sher Khan Anchan and a marble Baradari was later constructed at this palace. This royal garden was named Hilal Bagh (Crescent Garden). Another garden was also laid which was named Chhar Bagh on the site where a Girls College stands now. The said garden was laid on the orders of the Queen while her husband was away to Gilgit and then to Chitral. As the mother tongue of the Queen was Persian, she gave Persian name to these gardens.
Buddhist Rock
There is only one surviving Buddhist Rock with carvings in the Skardu Valley located on Satpara road. Probably the rock carvings and images of Buddha date back to the period of Great Tibetan Empire. When the Buddhist people of Gandhara migrated and passed through the present northern areas of Pakistan, they settled at some places temporarily and carved drawings of Stupas, scenes of their experiences and images of Buddha with texts in Kharoshti language. There were a number of such Buddhist rock carvings in the Skardu Valley. Probably those rocks were used either by Ali Sher Khan Anchan as building material or submerged in the Satpara lake.
Satpara Lake
8 Kms south of Skardu, 20 minutes by jeep, lies the Satpara Lake. Surrounded by high glacial mountains, this lake has an island in the middle of its clear waters, which can be reached by boat. The lake is considered ideal for trout fishing.
Kachura Lake
About 32 kms from Skardu, 2 hours by jeep, lie the shimmering waters of the Kachura Lake. In the springtime its banks are adorned by a multitude of colourful flowers, while the trees are laden with peach, apricot and apple blossoms. The lake offers great opportunities for trout fishing.
Shigar Valley
The Shigar Valley, 32 kms from Skardu and 2 hours by jeep, is watered by the Shigar River. It forms the gateway to the great mountain peaks of the Karakoram, including Mount K-2. The valley has an extremely picturesque landscape, and abounds in fruit such as grapes, peaches, pears, walnuts and apricots.
Khaplu Valley
This beautiful valley of the Shyok River is 103 kms from Skardu and 6 hours by jeep. There is a sprawling village perched on the slopes of the steep mountains that hem in the river. Many famous mountains, such as Masherbrum, K-6, K-7, Sherpi Kangh, Sia Kangri, Saltoro Kangri etc. are located here.
Kaghan Valley
The 161 kms long landscape of the Kaghan Valley with its towering Himalayan peaks, peaceful lakes, majestic glaciers and splashing waterfalls is a scenic wonderland, ending northwards in the 4148 metres (13,600 ft) high Babusar Pass, jeep service is available in the valley during summer, while motels and rest-houses offer comfortable accommodation. .The adventure begins in Bellyached, a charming mountain village, from where a road climbs 34 kms up to Shogran. At a height of 2,362 metres, Shogran has thickly forested slopes and grassy meadows, which present an ideal setting for your first stopover.
The raging Kunhar River accompanies the steep winding road which leads to the Kaghan village. This little village, after which the valley has been named, is only 61 kms from Bellyached. Between Kaghan and Naran there is a distance of 25 kms. Naran serves as the base-camp for excursions to other valleys, lakes and peaks.
Lake Saif-ul-Muluk
10 kms from Naran, this lake is 3200 metres high, providing an awe-inspiring view of Malika Parbat (Queen of the Mountains) 5,260 metres high. You can go boating on the lake and hear the local legend about Prince Saif-ul-Muluk who fell in love with fairy.
One treks from Saiful Maluk goes to Lalazar. This track is 9 miles long.
Shogran
About 24 kilometre away from Balakot on Balakot-Kaghan Road is Kaiwai from where one can go up on right side of the road to Shogran. Shogran is 8 kilometre from Kaiwai and a pleasant place at an elevation of 7750 feet above sea level. It is a small meadow where one can stay for a night.
Sharan
Sharan is 12 kilometre away from Paras which is situated on Balakot-Kanghan Road about 28 kilometre up to Balakot. Paras is only 4 kilometre away from Kaiwai—the base camp of Shogran. Sharan come left across the river Kunar from Paras bazzar. It is about 9200 feet above sea level and a thick forest of pine welcomes tourist. This land is still virgin and there is only two rest houses not a single hotel.
Babusar Pass
4146 metres high, this is the gateway to the Gilgit valley. On a clear day, you can catch a glimpse of the towering Nanga Parbat, 8126 metres high. This is the highest point, and marks the end of the Kaghan expedition. On the way to the Pass there are many quaint villages, such as Battakundi, Burawai, Besal and Gittidas, where you can rest. If you have the time, the enchanting Lalazar plateau near Batakundi and Lulusar Lake near the Babusar Pass are worth visiting.
Chitral
The Chitral valley at an elevation of 1127.76 metres (3,700 feet) is favourite with mountaineers, anglers, hunters, hikers, naturalists and anthropologists. The 7787.64 metres (25,550 feet) Trichmir, the highest peak of the Hindu Kush Mountain dominates this 321.87 kms (200 miles) long exotic valley.
Chitral district has Afghanistan on its north, south and west. A narrow strip of Afghan territory, Wakhan separates it from the Soviet Union. The tourist season in Chitral is from June to September.
Kafir-Kalash Tribe
One of the major attractions of Chitral are the Kalash valleys – the home of the Kafir-Kalash or Wearers of the Black Robe, a primitive pagan tribe. Their ancestry is shrouded in mystery. A legend has it that some soldiers of the legions of Alexander of Macedonia settled down in Chitral and the present Kafir-Kalash are their off springs.
The 3,000 strong Kafir-Kalash live in the valleys of Birir, Bumburet and Rambur in the south. Bumburet, the largest and the most picturesque valley of the Kafir-Kalash, is 40 kms (25 miles) from Chitral and is connected by a jeepable road. Birir, 34 kms (21 miles) away, is accessible by a jeepable road. Rambur is 32 kms (20 miles) from Chitral. The road is jeepable upto Ayun and the remaining 16 kms (10 miles) have to be travelled on foot.
The Kalash women wear black gowns of coarse cloth in summer and hand-spun wool dyed in black in winter. Their picturesque headgear is made of woollen black material studded with cowrie shells, buttons and crowned with a large coloured feather. The Kalash are gay people and love music and dancing particularly on occasions of their religious festivals like Joshi Chilimjusht (14th 15th May Spring), Phool (20th-25th September) and Chowas (18th to 21st December). Foreign tourists require special permits to visit the Kalash valleys. Permits are issued free of cost by the Deputy Commissioner, Chitral.
Garam Chashma (Hot Springs)
Elevation: 1859 metres (6,100 feet). Distance: 45 km (28 miles) Northwest of Chitral. By jeep 3 hours. This unspoiled enchanting valley of orchards, verdant fields and snow-clad peaks is renowned for its boiling sulphur springs which are famous for healing effect on skin diseases, gout, rheumatism and chronic headaches. For the convenience of tourists humams (baths) have been constructed near the springs.
Birmoghalasht
Worth visiting is the fairy-tale summer palace of the ex-ruler perched at a height of 2743 metres (9,000 feet). It offers awe-inspiring views of Trichmir and panoramic vistas of valleys below. The fort is approachable on foot only.
History of Polo
Polo is an equestrian sport with its origin embedded in Central Asia dating as far back as sixth century BC. At first it was training game for Cavalry Units for the Kings guards or other elite troops. To the warlike tribesmen who played polo with as many as 100 players to a side it was a miniature battle. Polo became a Persian national sport played extensively by men as well as women in the sixth century AD. Usually played in front of royal palaces, marble goal posts still stand in front of the palace in Tehran.
Shandur Polo Tournament
The most exciting polo tournament of the entire Northern Areas is played on top of the Shandur Pass, almost 4000 metres above sea level, a place unique and exotic in itself surrounded by some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the world. The event marks the annual rivalry between the polo teams of Gilgit and Chitral. The Shandur Polo Tournament also has some added attractions for the visitors. These include a Golf tournament at the Shandur Golf ground, also reputedly the highest golf ground in the world; a trout fishing competition as the neighbouring streams and takes abound with trout; other equestrian events and a festival of folk dances of the Northern Areas. The Shandur Polo Tournament offers much more than an ordinary festival stretching over five days and four nights. The highlight of all festivals of course remains the final match between the Gilgit and Chitral polo teams. Polo is played here in its original state with a minimum of rules and provides a most colourful spectacle. Supporters of both sides travel long distances from the remote parts of Chitral and Gilgit areas in order to be present at the thrilling Shandur Polo Tournament. The event, as such, provides a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of the ordinary people of these regions. Their culture and indigenous customs are a delight to behold for the visitors.
Shandur offers crystal clear lakes, snow covered mountains and alpine flowers amidst vast stretches of green grass. A tourist village comprising tents and restaurant springs up during the tournament. Merchants from Chitral and Gilgit set up Souvenir and Folkcraft shops. The tournament offers visitors an opportunity to mix with the locals of these areas.
How to reach Shandur Polo
The Shandur Top lies mid-way between Chitral and Gilgit on an unmetalled road travelling on which a adventurous, to say the least. The distance from either side, Chitral or Gilgit, to the Shandur Pass is approximately 168 km (105 miles).
Getting to Chitral or Gilgit is possible by air on PIA Foker operated flights from Peshawar and Islamabad. There are daily flights but are subject to weather and tourists planning to go by air must make allowance of at least a couple of days in their itineraries just in case the weather does not permit flights to operate.
Road Access to Chitral
Go through Gilgit, you will encounter superb mountain scenery complete with crystal clear waters of Northern Area Rivers. From the Chitral side it is certainly worthwhile for travellers to stop at Mastuj for the night. From Gilgit side travellers can stop for the right at Gupis.
Photo Lake Saif ul Malook
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Tags:
Northern Areas, Travel